the-face-shop The Face Shop Dr.Belmeur Advanced Cica Recovery Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water/Eau
2. Glycerin
3. Cyclopentasiloxane
4. Polymethylsilsesquioxane
5. Cyclohexasiloxane
6. Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
7. Propanediol
8. Cetearyl Alcohol
9. Stearyl Heptanoate
10. 1,2 - Hexanediol
11. Panthenol
12. Dipropylene Glycol
13. Dimethicone
14. Stearyl Caprylate
15. Ceramide Np
16. Ceramide Ap
17. Ceramide Eop
18. Madecassoside
19. Asiaticoside
20. Asiatic Acid
21. Madecassic Acid
22. Trehalose
23. Adenosine
24. Tannic Acid
25. Sodium Hyaluronate
26. Myristica Fragrans Extract
27. Beta-Glucan
28. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
29. Ethylhexylglycerin
30. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
31. Phytosphingosine
32. Cholesterol
33. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
34. Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
35. Carbomer
36. Xanthan Gum
37. Potassium Hydroxide
38. Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
39. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
40. Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
41. Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
42. Beta-Carotene
43. Ascorbyl Palmitate
44. Theobroma Cacao Extract
45. Cinnamomum Camphora Bark Oil
46. Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
47. Origanum Majorana Leaf Oil
48. Cymbopogon Martini Oil
49. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Oil
50. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains siliconesContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains animal-derivedContains essential oils

Formulation view O/W serum with volatile silanes for smoothness. Key actives include panthenol and cica extracts, plus three ceramide types to reinforce the barrier. Beta-glucan and adenosine support recovery, ideal for damaged and sensitive skin. Factory view: balance silicones and emulsifiers to prevent greasiness while ensuring active stability.

Key ingredients

溶剂

Water/Eau

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

CyclopentasiloxaneCyclohexasiloxaneCetyl EthylhexanoateCetearyl Alcohol

OPACIFYING

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

SOLVENT

Propanediol

Other ingredients

Stearyl Heptanoate1,2 - HexanediolPanthenolDipropylene GlycolDimethiconeStearyl CaprylateCeramide NpCeramide ApCeramide EopMadecassosideAsiaticosideAsiatic AcidMadecassic AcidTrehaloseAdenosineTannic AcidSodium HyaluronateMyristica Fragrans ExtractBeta-GlucanAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerEthylhexylglycerinCaprylic/Capric TriglyceridePhytosphingosineCholesterolSodium Stearoyl GlutamateSodium Lauroyl LactylateCarbomerXanthan GumPotassium HydroxideDiethylhexyl SyringylidenemalonateHelianthus Annuus Seed OilDaucus Carota Sativa Root ExtractDaucus Carota Sativa Seed OilBeta-CaroteneAscorbyl PalmitateTheobroma Cacao ExtractCinnamomum Camphora Bark OilLitsea Cubeba Fruit OilOriganum Majorana Leaf OilCymbopogon Martini OilCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower OilCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water/Eau

Water as base solvent; no irritation, but requires preservatives to prevent microbial growth.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclopentasiloxane for emollient/solvent; volatile silicone, smooth feel, check VOC regulations.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Silicone polymer for emolliency, matte effect, and suspension; used in foundations or powder suspensions, typical usage 1-5%, smooth skin feel.

Cyclohexasiloxane

Volatile cyclic silicone evaporating without residue; ensure compliance with EU limits on cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, use octamer

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Synthetic oil providing slip; large molecule, low penetration, non-comedogenic, suitable for dry or rough skin.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Stearyl Heptanoate

Lipophilic emollient and skin-conditioning agent; improves texture and reduces dryness; high levels may increase greasiness.

1,2 - Hexanediol

Diol solvent and preservative booster with mild antimicrobial activity; very low irritation, often replaces traditional preservatives, compatible with some organic acids.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Dipropylene Glycol

Solvent for essential oils; better humectancy than PEG

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Stearyl Caprylate

Light emollient ester; fast-spreading, non-tacky; improves texture and slip in most bases

Ceramide Np

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Ceramide Ap

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Ceramide Eop

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Madecassoside

Triterpenoid glycoside with soothing, repairing, and antioxidant effects; typical concentration 0.1-1%, suitable for sensitive or compromised skin, good stability.

Asiaticoside

Plant glycoside, healing and antioxidant; poor solubility, use low levels with solubilizers.

Asiatic Acid

Pro-healing active, 0.1–1%; stability affected by light, store protected from light.

Madecassic Acid

Madecassoside hydrolysis product for barrier repair and anti-inflammatory action; mild, low typical usage

Trehalose

Trehalose; mild humectant and stabilizer for proteins/actives; hygroscopic, light skin feel.

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Tannic Acid

Astringent and fragrance; high levels may irritate, check compatibility

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Myristica Fragrans Extract

Nutmeg extract providing fragrance and mild toning; used as fragrance, control concentration to avoid irritation.

Beta-Glucan

Polysaccharide for soothing and hydration; high MW acts on the surface, poor penetration into deep dermis.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Crosspolymer for thickening/film; needs neutralization to pH 7-8 to hydrate, check ion strength.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine barrier repair ingredient, 0.1–1%; water-soluble, good for dry skin.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Mild amino-acid surfactant, poor solubility, pairs with fatty alcohols, fine foam.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Mild emulsifier at 1–5%; suitable for sensitive skin, mind cationic surfactant compatibility

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Potassium Hydroxide

Strong alkali pH adjuster, trace usage (<0.1%); corrosive, must be neutralized.

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate

New UV filter (UVA/UVB); EU limits 2.8%/1.4%, potential sensitizer, stability required

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Carrot root extract with carotenoids; skin conditioning, low photosensitivity, may stain.

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil

Plant seed oil with antioxidants; may have natural fragrance, low photosensitizing potential

Beta-Carotene

Beta-carotene for color and antioxidants; oil-soluble, protect from oxidation and color change.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl palmitate, lipophilic Vit C ester, antioxidant; oxidizes, needs light/air protection.

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Cacao extract providing antioxidants and conditioning, aids skin elasticity.

Cinnamomum Camphora Bark Oil

Camphor bark oil containing camphor and linalool; strong scent, potential allergen, strict concentration control needed

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Litsaea cubeba fruit oil; distinct aroma, potential irritant; use as essential oil, label fully.

Origanum Majorana Leaf Oil

Not decoded yet

Cymbopogon Martini Oil

Natural essential oil with distinct aroma; contains allergens requiring safety assessment.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Oil

Essential oil for fragrance and astringency; contains allergens like linalool, limited by III/350

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Bergamot essential oil, natural fragrance and photosensitizer; limit daytime use or use FCF grade

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