stubborn-cosmetics Stubborn Cosmetics Personalised Moisturiser Dry Skin

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Niacinamide
3. Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
4. Cetearyl Olivate
5. Propanediol
6. Oenothera Biennis Oil
7. Isoamyl Laurate
8. Glycerin
9. Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
10. Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
11. Behenyl Alcohol
12. Panthenol
13. Sorbitan Olivate
14. Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
15. Theobroma Grandiflorum Butter
16. Salix Nigra Bark Extract
17. Myristyl Myristate
18. Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate
19. Cetyl Alcohol
20. Avena Sativa Kernel Protein
21. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
22. Ceramide NP
23. Ceramide AP
24. Ceramide EOP
25. Phytosphingosine
26. Cholesterol
27. Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
28. Beta-Glucan
29. Arnica Montana Extract
30. Sodium Hyaluronate
31. Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
32. Gluconolactone
33. Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
34. Tocopherol
35. Glyceryl Caprylate
36. Allantoin
37. Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract
38. Xanthan Gum
39. Acacia Gum
40. Potassium Sorbate
41. Sodium Levulinate
42. Sodium Anisate
43. Citric Acid

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains animal-derivedContains parabens

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Oryza Sativa Bran OilCetearyl OlivateOenothera Biennis OilIsoamyl Laurate

DENATURANT

Glycerin

Other ingredients

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit OilCamellia Japonica Seed OilBehenyl AlcoholPanthenolSorbitan OlivateSimmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTheobroma Grandiflorum ButterSalix Nigra Bark ExtractMyristyl MyristatePolyglyceryl-2 SesquioleateCetyl AlcoholAvena Sativa Kernel ProteinCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractCeramide NPCeramide APCeramide EOPPhytosphingosineCholesterolSodium Lauroyl LactylateBeta-GlucanArnica Montana ExtractSodium HyaluronateHydrolyzed Sodium HyaluronateGluconolactoneTetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateTocopherolGlyceryl CaprylateAllantoinPrunus Domestica Fruit ExtractXanthan GumAcacia GumPotassium SorbateSodium LevulinateSodium AnisateCitric Acid

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Rice bran oil rich in oryzanol and linoleic acid for conditioning; moderate comedogenic rating, mind oxidative stability.

Cetearyl Olivate

Natural emulsifier pairing with glucosides; skin-like feel, biodegradable, prone to oxidation requiring light protection

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Natural oil rich in GLA; supports barrier, prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants

Isoamyl Laurate

Lightweight ester emollient; fast-drying, non-greasy feel, suitable for oily skin or summer formulations

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Sea buckthorn oil, rich in carotenoids/Vit E/PUFA; strong antioxidant, light-sensitive, prone to oxidation.

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Light emollient oil with refined feel; low comedogenic, suitable for most skin.

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Sorbitan Olivate

O/W emulsifier, HLB ~15, requires ionic co-surfactant, potential sensitizer.

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Common in dry/damaged hair; superior penetration vs mineral oils, low comedogenic risk, poor oxidative stability.

Theobroma Grandiflorum Butter

Not decoded yet

Salix Nigra Bark Extract

Black willow bark extract with natural salicylic acid precursors; for soothing and exfoliation, test on sensitive skin at low levels.

Myristyl Myristate

Di-C14 ester, waxy solid for thickening and conditioning; provides matte and smooth feel, low comedogenicity, good for compacts.

Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate

Mild non-ionic polyglyceryl emulsifier; suitable for natural claims, moderate emulsifying power

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Avena Sativa Kernel Protein

Oat kernel protein; film former for hair/skin; soothing for sensitive skin; protein allergen risk, high levels may be sticky

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Ceramide AP

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine barrier repair ingredient, 0.1–1%; water-soluble, good for dry skin.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Mild emulsifier at 1–5%; suitable for sensitive skin, mind cationic surfactant compatibility

Beta-Glucan

Polysaccharide for soothing and hydration; high MW acts on the surface, poor penetration into deep dermis.

Arnica Montana Extract

Arnica extract for soothing and skin conditioning; may sensitize, avoid for sensitive or compromised skin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid derivative with better penetration and strong hydration; different molecular weights provide hydration at various depths, typical concentration 0.1-1%.

Gluconolactone

Multifunctional agent for chelation and permeation; acidic, may irritate at high levels, buffer recommended.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Gluconate diacetate tetrasodium chelator; replaces EDTA, improves stability against metals

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Acacia Gum

Not decoded yet

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Sodium Levulinate

Sodium levulinate, natural-derived humectant; generally mild, often used in blends.

Sodium Anisate

Benzoate-based preservative component; used in combinations for antimicrobial effect, slight fragrance, control concentration.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

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