dr-dennis-gross Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water/Aqua/Eau
2. Alcohol Denat
3. Glycolic Acid
4. Potassium Hydroxide
5. Hamamelis Virginiana Water
6. Salicylic Acid*
7. Polysorbate 20
8. Citric Acid
9. Lactic Acid
10. Malic Acid
11. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
12. Achillea Millefolium Extract
13. Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
14. Soy Isoflavones
15. Copper Pca
16. Zinc Pca
17. Lecithin
18. Disodium EDTA
19. Alcohol
20. Polysorbate 80
21. Fragrance
22. Linalool
23. Benzyl Salicylate
24. Benzoic Acid
25. Phenoxyethanol
26. Sodium Benzoate
27. Water/Aqua/Eau
28. Sodium Bicarbonate
29. Ascorbic Acid
30. Ascorbyl Palmitate
31. Retinyl Palmitate
32. Retinol
33. Tocopheryl Acetate
34. Resveratrol
35. Ubiquinone
36. Achillea Millefolium Extract
37. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
38. Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
39. Soy Isoflavones
40. Phospholipids
41. Copper Pca
42. Sodium PCA
43. Zinc Pca
44. Dimethicone
45. Lecithin
46. Polysorbate 20
47. Polysorbate 80
48. PEG-30 Stearate
49. Octoxynol-9
50. Alcohol
51. BHT
52. Tetrasodium EDTA
53. Sorbic Acid
54. Sodium Benzoate
55. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Free of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains alcoholContains PEGContains fragranceContains essential oilsContains animal-derivedContains parabensContains EU-26 allergensContains silicones

Key ingredients

溶剂

Water/Aqua/EauAlcohol Denat

BUFFERING

Glycolic AcidCitric Acid

BUFFERING · 限制 III

Potassium Hydroxide

ASTRINGENT

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

ANTI-SEBORRHEIC

Salicylic Acid*

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polysorbate 20

Other ingredients

Lactic AcidMalic AcidCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractAchillea Millefolium ExtractAnthemis Nobilis Flower ExtractSoy IsoflavonesCopper PcaZinc PcaLecithinDisodium EDTAAlcoholPolysorbate 80FragranceLinaloolBenzyl SalicylateBenzoic AcidPhenoxyethanolSodium BenzoateWater/Aqua/EauSodium BicarbonateAscorbic AcidAscorbyl PalmitateRetinyl PalmitateRetinolTocopheryl AcetateResveratrolUbiquinoneAchillea Millefolium ExtractCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateSoy IsoflavonesPhospholipidsCopper PcaSodium PCAZinc PcaDimethiconeLecithinPolysorbate 20Polysorbate 80PEG-30 StearateOctoxynol-9AlcoholBHTTetrasodium EDTASorbic AcidSodium BenzoatePhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water/Aqua/Eau

Primary aqueous solvent and carrier; no specific incompatibilities, focus on microbial stability.

Alcohol Denat

Denatured ethanol; solvent, penetration enhancer, and quick-dry agent; high % may compromise barrier in dry skin.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid for exfoliation; requires buffering at concentrations >10%, avoid combination with other acids.

Potassium Hydroxide

Strong alkali pH adjuster, trace usage (<0.1%); corrosive, must be neutralized.

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Hamamelis water; tannins/flavonoids for astringent and soothing; low conc, generally well-tolerated

Salicylic Acid*

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Malic Acid

AHA for pH buffering; mild at low conc, risk at high, control pH & total acidity

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Yarrow extract; chrysogenic content for soothing; contains essential oil components, assess phototoxicity and allergens

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Chamomile extract used for soothing; check for potential sensitizing allergens.

Soy Isoflavones

Soy isoflavones; phytoestrogen antioxidant; topically safe, high dose may affect endocrine.

Copper Pca

Copper PCA chelating agent and humectant; added in trace amounts (0.01-0.1%) to stabilize formulation and supply copper ions.

Zinc Pca

Zinc salt for sebum control and antimicrobial; often paired with PCA sodium, high levels may cause sensitization

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Alcohol

Ethanol for solubility/drying at 5-15%; high conc. is drying/irritating, avoid lip/eye, low residue, balance with humectants.

Polysorbate 80

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer; watch for interaction with parabens

Fragrance

Fragrance; concentration must control allergen risk, label specific components

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Benzyl Salicylate

UV absorber/light stabilizer, restricted in EU; potential sensitizer, risk assessment needed.

Benzoic Acid

Preservative and pH adjuster at 0.1–0.5%; low water solubility, best in acidic media, irritant at high levels.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Water/Aqua/Eau

Primary aqueous solvent and carrier; no specific incompatibilities, focus on microbial stability.

Sodium Bicarbonate

Sodium bicarbonate; buffer and deodorant; alkaline at high pH, potential irritation, control dosage

Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C, potent antioxidant requiring acidic environment for stability; oxidizes and discolors easily, needs light and air protection, concentration 1-10%, pure L-ascorbic acid is more irritating.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl palmitate, lipophilic Vit C ester, antioxidant; oxidizes, needs light/air protection.

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Resveratrol

Potent polyphenol antioxidant <1%; light-sensitive, needs antioxidants/chelators

Ubiquinone

Coenzyme Q10 analog used as an antioxidant; prone to discoloration, needs protection from light and air.

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Yarrow extract; chrysogenic content for soothing; contains essential oil components, assess phototoxicity and allergens

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Bio-fermented filtrate for antimicrobial and anti-dandruff effects; assess individual variability, avoid in known allergy.

Soy Isoflavones

Soy isoflavones; phytoestrogen antioxidant; topically safe, high dose may affect endocrine.

Phospholipids

Biomimetic repair and emollient, mimics skin lipids; typically processed at low temps, may be sticky at high levels

Copper Pca

Copper PCA chelating agent and humectant; added in trace amounts (0.01-0.1%) to stabilize formulation and supply copper ions.

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA, NMF component, 1-10% humectant; salty/tacky at high levels.

Zinc Pca

Zinc salt for sebum control and antimicrobial; often paired with PCA sodium, high levels may cause sensitization

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Polysorbate 80

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer; watch for interaction with parabens

PEG-30 Stearate

PEG-30 stearate emulsifier; incompatible with cationic surfactants.

Octoxynol-9

Non-ionic water-soluble emulsifier for O/W or micellar systems; 2-10% usage, solubilizes oils, check with anionics

Alcohol

Ethanol for solubility/drying at 5-15%; high conc. is drying/irritating, avoid lip/eye, low residue, balance with humectants.

BHT

Lipophilic antioxidant at 0.01-0.05%; ineffective with acidic systems, label-sensitive, check regulatory limits as preservative alternative.

Tetrasodium EDTA

Chelator removing metal ions to enhance antioxidant and preservative efficacy; very low usage, typically 0.05-0.1%, no direct skincare function.

Sorbic Acid

Preservative effective at low pH, often combined with sorbate salts; check regulatory limits

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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